Hoppy Ending / October Brew Review

Is any beer hoppy enough? Hops are the brilliant flowering cones and a cousin of the cannabis plant (sorry, no THC in these crops) that lend much of the beer’s aroma, flavor, and bittering properties which derive from the hop’s resin and oil. Hops are the age-old seasoning of the beer, the natural warriors who fight spoilage from wild bacteria, act as a preservative, and bring balance to the sweetness from malt. They also help create head/foam retention that pleases the palate by imparting its unique characters and flavors. Basically, hops put the ‘bite’ in beer.

American brewers are creating many ‘extreme’ brews to celebrate the intoxicating character of hops and playing a game of ‘one up’ to challenge beer perception and ultimately redefining consumers tastes. As a brew advocate and self proclaimed ‘hophead,’ I like finding the harmony in chaos. Any brewer can pitch in loads of hops into their beer, but how does it play with the other ingredients?

Our tongue and brain are imbedded initially not to like or appreciate bitter flavors – in a plant’s defense, bitterness is nature’s way of saying ‘don’t eat me.’ The International Bitterness Unit (IBU) scale is roughly used to gauge bitterness – a typical American Light Lager has around 10 IBUs, and below you will see an American Double India Pale Ale at 101 IBUs!

Early autumn in America brings a new hop harvest, typically picked from the Northwest regions like Oregon and Washington. Unfortunately, we have a crisis on our hands; American and European hop supplies are dwindling and craft beer demand is skyrocketing. A warehouse fire that held 4% of the year’s US crop, energy prices, and ruinous weather in Europe furthered the hop shortage. Many small, craft brewers are scrambling to find the hops for their recipes, while much larger producers, like Anheuser-Busch/ InBev & MillerCoors, aren’t as affected because they have long-term contracts with hop growers.

To this, drink what you like and remember that beer is still one of the best affordable luxuries. You can go to the store with $10 and come out with a six-pack of a world-class beer – try doing that with a world-class wine.



HopDevil Ale
Victory Brewing Co.
Downingtown, PA
victorybeer.com

The Devil pours reddish with persimmon highlights and displays rocky foam crowning the lip. The aroma of fresh hops sits to the back while more grain and malt are mostly present - the fresher the brew the more revealing hop aroma. This brown bottle has an ‘Enjoy By’ date of October 22, 2008 that could explain the underwhelming aroma. The taste is absolutely perfect – caramel malt and piney/grapefruit hops whisk together then slide to a trailing bitterness that devilishly taunts repetition. This ale is silky, somewhat dry, and completely exquisite.


Appearance: 4.5
Smell: 3.5
Taste: 5
Mouthfeel: 4
Drinkability: 5
Overall = 4.5


Style: American IPA (India Pale Ale)
Alcohol By Volume : 6.70%
International Bitterness Units: about 55
Availability: Year Round
Sample Size: 12oz. brown bottle

Pairings
Cheese: Gorgonzola, Limburger
Cuisine: Thai, Spicy Indian
Glassware: Pint glass
Price: $7.99 six-pack


Green Flash Imperial India Pale Ale
Green Flash Brewing Co.
San Diego, California
greenflashbrew.com

The golden ale kissed with garnet highlights releases a complex and masterful aroma of spruce, pineapple, cannabis, green grapes, and onions. The hop flavor on this beer is magnificent and somewhat unbalanced – in that the flavor lends intensity to the bitterness with a malt background screaming for attention. Pure freshness and masterful complexity where it counts. Crisp edges and medium carbonation gives a dry yet smooth mouthfeel. At 101 IBUs, I was expecting a bit more flavor bitterness throughout the finish but the aroma flags abrupt caution.

Appearance: 4
Smell: 5
Taste: 4.5
Mouthfeel: 3.5
Drinkability: 4
Overall = 4.35

Style: American Double IPA (India Pale Ale)
Alcohol By Volume: 9%
International Bitterness Units: 101
Availability : Year Round
Sample Size: 22 oz. brown bomber

Pairings:
Cheese: Pungent blue, razor sharp cheddar
Cuisine: Grilled Meat
Glassware: Pint Glass
Price: $6.15 bottle

July Brew Review / Texas Pale Ales

Texas Pale Ales

This month we stay local and explore two brews crafted right around Southeast Texas. First we visit the new and out of the chute, Southern Star Brewing Company from Conroe to taste their craft-canned Pine Belt American Pale Ale. Next, we’ll sample an American IPA (India Pale Ale) from the well established and Texas favorite, Saint Arnold Brewing Company of Houston.


Pine Belt Pale Ale
Southern Star Brewing Company
Conroe, Texas
southernstarbrewing.com

Slightly hazy-copper color with a light beige meringue head that has good staying power. Syrupy grapefruit and fresh, floral pine oil control the nose along with some slight toasted malt. The body is medium with a fine carbonation, giving a zesty mouthfeel that becomes creamy as it warms. Fresh cut grass and the oily Columbus hop character quickly take over the palate to provide a clean bite of citric, grapefruit character and with juicy fruit gum, which yields a crisp fresh taste. Malty undertones of crust and caramel help to balance Pine Belt’s flavor while the hop bitterness progressively increases and loiters on the tongue after each sip. I found this local gem at Spec’s in Houston and I look forward to when this beer is available in Beaumont.

Appearance: 4.5
Smell: 4
Taste: 4.5
Mouthfeel: 4
Drinkability: 5
Overall = 4.4

Style: American Pale Ale (APA)
Alcohol By Volume : ?
Availability: Year Round

Sample Size: 16oz. can
Pairings:
Cheese: Camembert, Fontina,
Cuisine: grilled lemongrass chicken & vermicelli / see below for marinade.
Glassware: pint glass
Price: $6.49 / four-pack



Elissa IPA
Saint Arnold Brewing Company
Houston, Texas
saintarnold.com

Pours transparent copper-orange with a nominal, light ecru head that dissipates quickly and leaves a faint collar. Cascade hops dominate the aroma’s foreground with some caramel to the back. The taste surprisingly balances with sweet malt caramel and biscuity flavors then finishes with a middling hop presence that is citrus and pine that fades quickly leaving a lingering bitterness. The malt is not sticky or overly sweet; it is simply the dominant flavor. Smooth bodied with medium carbonation lend a dry finish.

Appearance: 3.5
Smell: 4
Taste: 3.5
Mouthfeel: 4
Drinkability: 4
Overall = 3.7

Style: American IPA (India Pale Ale)
Alcohol By Volume : 6.60%

Availability : Year Round
Sample Size: 12oz. bottle
Pairings:
Cheese: Limburger
Cuisine: vegetarian Indian dishes, spicy chicken Pad Thai,
Glassware: pint glass
Price: $7.99 / six-pack

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The difference between an American Pale Ale an a American IPA (India Pale Ale) is that when IPAs were transported from Britain to the British colony of India, these brews would require more hops to be used as a preservative to make it through a four-month sea journey. In turn these IPAs acquired a deeper color and a more bitterness from the hops. American brewers who brew IPAs try to replicate the British IPA using American ingredients. Saint Arnold Brewing Company donates a percentage of the proceeds of from Elissa IPA to the Galveston Historical District for the preservation of the brew’s namesake; a tall moored ship similar to those commerce vessels that transported India Pale Ales from Britain to India.

American Pale Ales like Southern Star’s Pine Belt are quite popular and are an adaptation of English pale ales to reflect local ingredients native to America, often without heavy hopping and a less caramel flavor than their English counterparts. Southern Star’s Co-founders Dave Fougeron and Brian Hutchins began production of their first signature brew in March of this year from their 10,000 foot warehouse in Conroe. Southern Star Brewing Company is the one of the only microbreweries in the state of Texas to package their craft beer in a can.

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Vietnamese Lemongrass Chicken

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons fish sauce
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tablespoon curry powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons plus 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breast/thigh, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
3 tablespoons water
3 tablespoons cooking oil
2 fresh lemongrass stalks, tender inner white bulbs only, minced
1 large shallot, thinly sliced
3 chilies, seeded and minced
1 scallion for garnishing

Method:

In a bowl, combine the fish sauce, garlic, curry powder, salt, and 1 1/2 teaspoons of the sugar. Add the chicken meat to coat.

In a small skillet, mix the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar with 1 tablespoon of the water and cook over high heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Cook without stirring until a deep amber caramel forms. Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of water. Transfer to a bowl.

Heat a wok over high heat. Add the oil and heat until shimmering. Add the lemongrass, shallot, and chilies and stir-fry until fragrant. Add the chicken and caramel and stir-fry until the chicken is cooked through and the sauce is slightly thickened. Transfer to a bowl and top with the scallion. Serve with steamed white rice.

May Brew Review

Cusquena Premium Peruvian Beer
Compania Cervecera Del Sur Del Peru S.A. / Cusco, Peru / cusquena.co.uk

Cusquena streams into the pint glass from the unique brown bottle and displays a frothy two-finger head and a transparent golden straw color. Aroma of malt, caramel, and a slight Saaz floral hop character. The taste parallels the aroma and is very balanced and carbonated with a light body. This is a surprising beer and is a great transition from the true mass-marketed American Macro Lagers. Cusquena is refreshing and a fantastic buy for these hot Texas summers.

Appearance: 3 

Smell: 3 

Taste: 4 

Mouthfeel: 3.5 

Drinkability:4.5

Overall = 3.6

Style: American Macro Lager 

Alcohol By Volume : 5.00%

Availability : Year Round

Sample Size: 11.2 oz. brown bottle

Pairings:
Cheese: Monterey Jack
Cuisine: Ceviche (see my easy recipe below), Braised Pork Tacos, Chicken Tikka Masala
Glassware: Pint glass

Price: $7.50 six pack

 ApriHop

Dogfish Head Craft Brewery / Milton, Delaware / dogfish.com

Brown bottle reads, “A serious India Pale Ale brewed with real apricots.” Pours an orange-amber color, with an approaching crown of dense, fluffy, and creamy suds.  Apricot, slight pineapple, and pine oiled hops notes fills the nose. Middling apricot taste with dashed tartness and a hoppy bitterness that settles in the middle then balances with subtle malt character. Finishes with a medium mouthfeel that is crisp, quite dry, and a good bite expected for an India Pale Ale. ApriHop is an amazing beer that is not artificial or overpoweringly sweet; just a harmonious marriage of real fruit and real beer. 

Appearance: 4
Smell: 4
Taste: 4
Mouthfeel: 4
Drinkability: 4.5
Overall = 4.05
 
Style: Fruit Beer (India Pale Ale)
Alcohol By Volume : 7.00%
Availability : Spring Release
Sample Size: 12 oz. brown bottle

Pairings:
Cheese: Manchego
Cuisine: Hummus, Cuban Pork Tamales, Salad

Glassware: Pint glass
Price: $9 four pack


Style Profile:
Cusqueña (pronounced CUS-KEN-YA) is produced near the lost city of Machu Picchu-center of the Incas civilization in the Peruvian Andes. It is made with pure glacial mountain water from a source at 18,000 feet in the Andes and is the only Latin beer brewed to the German purity laws of 1516.

Within the style of Fruit Beer, components such as hops and malt may be intentionally subdued to allow the fruit character to dominate. The fruit should simply add an extra complexity and should be supportive to the beer while not artificial, but not be so prominent as to unbalance the final result. Remember that adding fruit should generally add flavor not sweetness to fruit beers. Kudos to Sam Calagione and his extreme style at Dogfish Head Brewery for creating his off-centered ales; always a treat.

Peruvian Ceviche Recipe

1 pound sea bass, chopped finely
1 cup lime juice
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 cup diced red onion
3 scallions, finely chopped
4 serrano chiles, seeds and ribs removed, diced
1/2 cup roughly chopped cilantro
1/2 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon coarse kosher salt
1 avocado, peeled, seed removed, sliced
Tortilla chips, for serving

In a non-reactive dish, such as a glass bowl, toss together the sea bass, lime juice, salt and garlic. Marinate for 30 minutes in the refrigerator. Drain the fish; it will have made a milky liquid. Add the scallions, chile and cilantro and stir gently together with the fish. Garnish each serving with slices of avocado and cilantro. Serve with tortilla chips and a bucket of Cusquena.